A new raglan sweater knitting pattern, the Adriana Striped Sweater is now a free sweater knitting pattern for women here on the blog. Read all about the mohair and DK yarn combination, the easy top down raglan construction or scroll down for the complete free knitting pattern.
No time right now? Pin this free jumper knitting pattern for later!
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Experience the joy of creating your own fashion with the Adriana Sweater pattern. This easy top-down raglan pattern is a symphony of stripes and coziness, perfect for those crisp fall days. The mohair yarn and DK weight yarn held together create a soft, plush texture that you’ll love to show off.
The beginner-friendly level of the pattern lets you dive right into the project regardless of your experience level. The pattern comes in sizes ranging from XS to 5XL, ensuring that anyone can enjoy the cozy comfort of handmade warmth.
Get your knitting needles ready and start creating your new favorite sweater with our Adriana Sweater pattern.
To give the Adriana raglan sweater knitting pattern it’s fluffy cozy look and feel, a strand of mohair yarn is held together with a strand of DK weight yarn. The stripes are achieved by working with 3 different colors of mohair yarn while keeping the DK weight yarn constant (I even have a quick tip to avoid weaving in ends!).
For the sample pictures here I worked with Audine Wools Interlock (34% cotton, 50% linen, 19% Lyocell, 11% Nylon, 321 m / 351 yd, 100 g) and Hobbii Diablo (Lace weight 1, 40% acrylic, 30% mohair, 30% polyamide, 225m/246yd, 25g/0.85oz)
Unfortunately, the DK weight Audine Wools yarn I used is no longer available. It is a semi-solid tonal color which adds a layer of variation when combined with different colors of mohair. Typically, semi-solid colorways are only available with indie hand-dyed yarns. But you can totally work with a uniform tonal colorway or a heathered yarn if you prefer.
Here are some widely available cotton blend yarns that could be good equivalents:
You can also choose to work with plain cotton yarns such as:
Finally, for a warmer sweater, you can use wool DK-weight yarns or other blends.
Allergic too wool / mohair? You have synthetic yarns that mimic the look & feel of mohair like for example, Hobbii Fluffy Day: hobbii.nl/fluffy-day. No need to hold it together with any other yarn to substitute the DK + Mohair used in this pattern.
Tip: When substituting yarn, make sure you check the yardage per skein of the yarn you’re planning to use and calculate how many skeins you’ll need based on the pattern yarn yardage per skein.
Also make sure your gauge matches the pattern’s so the sizing comes out right 😉.
Top Down Raglan Sweater Construction
The Adriana Striped sweater is a classic top-down raglan sweater knitting pattern.
This free jumper knitting pattern begins by casting stitches for the neck and then moving on to work the sweater in the round. Once the yoke is complete, the stitches for the sleeves are put on hold while you continue to work on the body. Finally, you’ll finish the sweater by returning to the stitches that were set aside for each sleeve and working them down to the cuffs.
Downloadable Adriana Striped Raglan Sweater Pattern
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Before you Start
- 4.5 mm / US 7 circular knitting needles.
- 5 mm/ US 8 circular knitting needles.
- DK weight yarn: Audine Wools Interlock (34% cotton, 50% linen, 19% Lyocell, 11% Nylon, 321 m / 351 yd, 100 g) in colorway Beaches: 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) (5, 6, 6, 6) skeins
- Hobbii Diablo (Lace weight 1, 40% acrylic, 30% mohair, 30% polyamide, 225m/246yd, 25g/0.85oz):
- MC: Champagne (13): 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (3, 3, 3, 3) skeins
- Color A: Powder Rose (14): 1 (2, 2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3) skeins
- Color B: Red Clay (47): 1 (2, 2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3) skeins
- Tapestry needle to weave in the ends.
- 4 stitch markers
- 2 stitch holders (you can use interchangeable needle cables or pieces of scrap yarn to hold the sleeve stitches while you work on the body)
The sweater is available in the following sizes: XS to 5XL. Sizes are noted throughout the pattern in the following way: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). The pictures illustrate the Medium size.
Final garment measurements are:
- XS: 84 cm / 33.25” bust, 55 cm / 21.5” long (from neckline), 32 cm / 12.75” upper arm circumference
- S: 95 cm / 37.5” bust, 58 cm / 22.75” long, 34 cm / 13.25” upper arm circumference
- M: 105 cm / 41.25” bust, 58 cm / 22.75” long, 36 cm / 14” upper arm circumference
- L: 119 cm / 46.75” bust, 61 cm / 24” long, 38 cm / 15” upper arm circumference
- XL: 125 cm / 49.25” bust, 62 cm / 24.25” long, 42 cm / 16.5” upper arm circumference
- 2XL: 135 cm / 53.25” bust, 62 cm / 24.25” long, 46 cm / 18.25” upper arm circumference
- 3XL: 145 cm / 57” bust, 64 cm / 25” long, 51 cm / 20” upper arm circumference
- 4XL: 154 cm / 60.5” bust, 64 cm / 25” long, 53 cm / 20.75” upper arm circumference
- 5XL: 164 cm / 65” bust, 68 cm / 26.5” long, 57 cm / 22.5” upper arm circumference
The sweater is designed with a loose fit 15 – 20 cm / 6” – 8” ease at the bust.
You can easily adjust the length to your desired length, just try on the sweater before the bottom ribbing rounds.
The gauge for this pattern, in stockinette stitch, is 18.5 st by 26 rows for a 10 cm by 10 cm square (4” by 4”).
Abbreviations & Instructions
- st = stitch
- k = knit
- p = purl
- yo = yarn over
- MC = main color
- M1R = make one right; single right-leaning knit increase
- M1L = make one left; single left-leaning knit increase
- k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
- ssk = slip 2 stitches knitwise, knit these 2 stitches together through back loops; single left-leaning decrease
Repeat instructions between  the indicated number of times or until the end of the round/row.
The final number of stitches is indicated at the end of the round/row between < >.
Special Stitches and Techniques
- M1R: Insert your left needle from back to front, under the bar between the stitches (thus lifting it onto the left needle). Knit this bar through the front loop (this twists it into a nice little tight loop)
- M1L: Insert the left needle from front to back, under the bar between the stitches (thus lifting it onto the left needle). Knit this bar through the back loop (this twists it into a nice little tight loop).
If you are not familiar with this increase technique, I find this video tutorial very helpful.
- Magic loop. If you’re not familiar with this technique, this tutorial will help you. Alternatively, you can choose to work with double-pointed needles instead.
- Stockinette stitch: knit all rounds.
Tips and Tricks
- Changing colors: Because you’re only changing colors for the thin mohair yarn to get the sweater stripes, you can just work a few stitches with both ends of mohair held together and it will barely be noticeable. This way you don’t have any ends to weave in from the color changes.
Special Stitches and Repeated Pattern
The sweater stripes are worked throughout the sweater working 8 rounds per color. To keep the pattern clear and simpler, this is not indicated throughout the pattern. However, all sizes are calculated for the stripes to work out nicely with the different sweater sections.
All ribbed sections should be worked with MC mohair yarn. This can mean for some sizes that you need to skip one of the mohair colors before working the cuffs and bottom ribbing.
The Actual Raglan Sweater Knitting Pattern
Raglan Sweater Yoke
With your 4.5 mm / US 7 circular knitting needles, cast on 88 (88, 90, 92, 92) (94, 96, 112, 116) st and join in the round using the magic loop.
[K1, p1] for 8 rounds.
Switch to 5 mm / US 8 circular knitting needles and markers on the next round as follow:
Increase round 1: [K2, M1L, k24 (22, 14, 10, 10) (8, 6, 10, 14), M1R, k2, add marker, k2, M1L, k12 (14, 23, 28, 28) (31, 34, 38, 36), M1R, k2, add marker] twice. <96 (96, 98, 100, 100) (102, 104, 120, 124) st>
For sizes XS to L only: Knit one round.
Increase round 2: K2, M1L, [k until 2 st before marker, M1R, k2, slip marker, k2, M1L] three times, knit until last 2 st, M1R, k2. <104 (104, 106, 108, 108) (110, 112, 128, 132) st>
For sizes XS to L only: Knit one round.
For sizes 2XL to 5XL only: Repeat [increase round 2] X (X, X, X, X) (2, 4, 6, 8) times. <X (X, X, X, X) (126, 144, 176, 196) st>
For all sizes: Repeat [increase round 2 followed by knit round] 14 (16, 22, 26, 30) (33, 36, 34, 34) times. <216 (232, 282, 316, 348) (390, 432, 448, 464) st>
Note: after approximately 8 increases you can switch to a short cord and simply knit in the round.
Increase Round 3 (increase for body only): K until next marker, [k2, M1L, knit until 2 st before next marker, M1R, k2, slip marker, knit until next marker] twice. <220 (236, 286, 320, 352) (394, 436, 452, 472) st>
Knit one round.
Repeat [increase round 3 followed by knit round] 11 (13, 7, 7, 5) (2, 0, 1, 5) times. <264 (288, 314, 348, 372) (402, 436, 456, 492) st>
You will now split your stitches between sleeves and body. Place the stitches for the sleeves on stitch holders. You will get back to them to knit the sleeves after you finish the sweater body.
- XS: Put 60 st on hold, k2, M1L, k until 2 st before marker, M1R, k2, put 60 st on hold, k2, M1L, k until last 2 st, M1R, k2. <148 st> left on your needles.
- S: Put 62 st on hold, k2, M1L, k until 2 st before marker, M1R, k2, put 62 st on hold, k2, M1L, k until last 2 st, M1R, k2. <168 st> left on your needles.
- M: Put 66 st on hold, k2, M1L, k until 2 st before marker, M1R, k2, put 66 st on hold, k2, M1L, k until last 2 st, M1R, k2. <186 st> left on your needles.
- L: Put 70 st on hold, k2, M1L, k until 2 st before marker, M1R, k2, put 70 st on hold, k2, M1L, k until last 2 st, M1R, k2. <212 st> left on your needles.
- XL: Put 78 st on hold, k2, M1L, k until 2 st before marker, M1R, k2, put 78 st on hold, k2, M1L, k until last 2 st, M1R, k2. <220 st> left on your needles.
- 2XL: Put 86 st on hold, k2, M1L, k until 2 st before marker, M1R, k2, put 86 st on hold, k2, M1L, k until last 2 st, M1R, k2. <234 st> left on your needles.
- 3XL: Put 94 st on hold, k2, M1L, k until 2 st before marker, M1R, k2, put 94 st on hold, k2, M1L, k until last 2 st, M1R, k2. <252 st> left on your needles.
- 4XL: Put 98 st on hold, k2, M1L, k until 2 st before marker, M1R, k2, put 98 st on hold, k2, M1L, k until last 2 st, M1R, k2. <264 st> left on your needles.
- 5XL: Put 106 st on hold, k2, M1L, k until 2 st before marker, M1R, k2, put 106 st on hold, k2, M1L, k until last 2st, M1R, k2. <284 st> left on your needles.
Note: Keep your stitch markers in place, you will need them for the body.
Knit one round.
Increase Round 4: K2, M1L, k until 2 st before marker, M1R, k2, slip marker, k2, M1L, k until last 2 st, M1R, k2. <152 (172, 190, 216, 224) (238, 256, 268, 288) st>
Knit one round.
Repeat [increase round 4 followed by knit round] 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) (3, 3, 4, 4). <156 (176, 194, 220, 232) (250, 268, 284, 304) st>
Keep knitting in stockinette until body reaches approximately 26 cm / 10.25”.
Note: Try on your sweater and adjust length if desired, taking into account the ribbing will add another 4 cm / 1.5”. I recommend finishing after a complete 8 round stripe for best results.
Switch to MC mohair yarn for the bottom ribbing.
Note: I didn’t switch to the smaller needles for the bottom ribbing on purpose so the sweater wouldn’t tighten up at the bottom like many sweaters do. If you prefer that, you can switch to smaller needles for the bottom ribbing.
[K1, p1] around for 10 rounds.
Cast off and weave in the ends.
Repeat for each sleeve.
Go back to stitches left aside for the sleeve. Join yarn at armpit (make sure you work with the correct mohair yarn color to respect your stripe pattern). Sleeves are worked in the round using the magic loop method.
Tip: Leave a long tail to sew the little hole that always comes from splitting for sleeves.
Knit 40 (40, 40, 40, 32) (32, 24, 16, 0) rounds (aka 5 (5, 5, 5, 4) (4, 3, 2, 0) stripes).
[Decrease: k2, k2tog, k until last 4 st, ssk, k2.
Knit 3 rounds] 10 (10, 12, 12, 16) (16, 18, 20, 22) times. <40 (42, 42, 46, 46) (54, 58, 58, 62) st>
Switch to 4.5 mm / US 7 knitting needles and MC color mohair yarn for the cuff.
Knit 1 round.
[K1, p1] for 15 rounds.
Cast off and weave in the ends.
You are done with the knitting part. Make sure to weave in all the ends.
To make your sweater even prettier and help even your stitches carefully block your project.
Don’t skip this step as it can make a huge difference. Read my detailed tutorial on why block, how-to, and all my tips and tricks if you need help.