A new top down crochet sweater pattern, the Marina Zipper Sweater is now a free crochet pattern for women here on the blog. Read all about the ultra-soft alpaca yarn, the seamless raglan construction and the stylish and practical zip-up collar or scroll down for the complete free crochet pattern.
No time right now? Pin this free striped crochet sweater pattern for later!
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Welcome to the world of cozy and stylish crochet with the Marina zipper top down crochet sweater pattern!
This comfy top-down sweater blends classic stripes with a modern twist, making it both stylish and easy to wear. It’s made from super soft alpaca yarn, so it’s warm and cozy, and has a handy zip-up collar. The colors are inspired by nature, giving off a calm, relaxing vibe—like being by a peaceful lake in the woods. Wearing it feels like slipping away to a cozy cabin getaway.
Whether you want to add a handmade piece to your closet or gift something special, this striped crochet sweater is a perfect choice.
The Top Down Crochet Sweater Construction
The Marina Zipper Sweater is crocheted seamlessly from the top down, starting with the collar. Then, the sweater yoke features a stylish wide raglan line created by groups of increases. After joining in the round and setting aside stitches for sleeves, you crochet the body and then return to finish the sleeves.
Throughout, the sweater maintains a charming stripe pattern, in 3 different colors. If you are not a fan of weaving in yarn ends, I have good news! While crocheting the Marina Zipper Sweater, you can easily carry over the main color from one stripe to the next on the inside of your work.
Finally, the entire piece comes together without seams, finishing with the addition of a zipper for a polished look. Don’t let that scare you off, I have a handy video tutorial for you!
The Yarn and Colors
For this design, I chose to use a DK weight yarn for a comfy loose fit with some drape. WeCrochet Alpaca Cloud DK (50g, 123 yd / 112 m) is a soft, light, and amazingly warm fiber made of 100% Baby Alpaca. It comes in a wide range of hues, of which I chose 3 for this design.
My inspiration for this design stemmed from a delightful day spent boating on the water, capped off with a serene late afternoon moment lounging on the lake deck. It began with the classic marinière concept, featuring alternating stripes of white and navy blue. But to infuse a livelier touch, I introduced deep green stripes and made the stripes larger for an almost color-block feel. As a result, this soothing nature palette evokes a sense of calmness that I love.
Feel free to use this pattern as a canvas to make your own inspirational landscape or favorite activity come alive! Your options are truly endless. Whatever colors you pick, the luxurious feel of the soft baby alpaca yarn is sure to make your striped crochet sweater a hit!
Tip: When substituting yarn, make sure you check the yardage per skein of the yarn you’re planning to use and calculate how many skeins you’ll need based on the pattern yarn yardage per skein. Also make sure your gauge matches the pattern’s so the sizing comes out right 😉. We have detailed workshops for both of these in the Stitching Squad.
Downloadable Top Down Crochet Sweater Pattern
Grab the printable PDF of the Marina Zipper Sweater pattern now in my shop, on my Etsy shop or on Ravelry.
More Easy Striped Crochet Sweater Patterns
Before You Start your Free Top Down Crochet Sweater
Materials
- 3.5 mm / US E – 4 hook.
- WeCrochet Alpaca Cloud DK (50g, 100% Baby Alpaca, 123 yd / 112 m):
- 9 (10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17, 18, 20) skeins in Sophia (off-white)
- 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) (5, 5, 6, 6) skeins in Victor (blue)
- 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) (5, 5, 6, 6) skeins in Gideon (green).
- Tapestry needle to weave in the ends.
- 8 stitch markers.
- Zipper:
Size
The crochet summer top pattern is available in following sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL. Sizes are written as XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) throughout the pattern. Pictures illustrate the L size.
The top is designed with a normal fit, 4 – 8 cm / 1.5” to 3” ease at the bust.
Below are the final top measurements for the different sizes.
- XS: bust 78 cm / 30.75”, upper arm 34 cm / 13.5”, length 66 cm / 26”
- S: bust 90 cm / 35.25”, upper arm 36 cm / 14.25”, length 67 cm / 26.25”
- M: bust 99 cm / 39”, upper arm 37 cm / 14.5”, length 68 cm / 26.75”
- L: bust 109 cm / 42.75”, upper arm 40 cm / 15.75”, length 69 cm / 27”
- XL: bust 120 cm / 47.25”, upper arm 44 cm / 17,25”, length 70 cm / 27.5”
- 2XL: bust 130 cm / 51”, upper arm 49 cm / 19”, length 73 cm / 28.5”
- 3XL: bust 139 cm / 54.75”, upper arm 51 cm / 20.25” length 75 cm / 29.5”
- 4XL: bust 151 cm / 59.25”, upper arm 55 cm / 21.75”, length 78 cm / 30.5”
- 5XL: bust 160 cm / 63”, upper arm 58 cm / 22.75”, length 79 cm / 31.25”
Gauge
The gauge for this pattern, in alternating rows of sc and dc, is 21 st by 16 rows for a 10 cm by 10 cm / 4” by 4” square.
Abbreviations
This pattern uses US notations.
- st = stitch
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- dc2tog = double crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)
- sl st = slip stitch
Notes
Work instructions between [] the indicated number of times or until the end of the row / round.
The final number of stitches is indicated at the end of the row / round between < >.
The turning ch 1, ch 2 don’t count as stitches throughout the pattern except if mentioned otherwise.
The pattern is written in crochet shorthand. For example:
- “sc 1” means to single crochet in the next stitch,
- “sc 2” means to single crochet in each of the next 2 stitches,
- and “2 sc” means to single crochet twice in the next st.
Special Stitches & Techniques
- Add a zipper to your crochet: I followed this tutorial with a small adjustment: not closing the seam to leave the top of the sweater open.
Repeated Patterns
- Stripe Pattern: To simplify the pattern instructions, the color changes are NOT indicated throughout the pattern. The pattern indicates where to start working the stripe pattern and from there onwards you’ll keep following the same color pattern:
- 4 rows/rounds in Victor (blue)
- 8 rows/rounds in Sophia (off-white)
- 4 rows/rounds in Gideon (green)
- 8 rows/rounds in Sophia (off-white)
Note: I’ve chosen to have the sc rows/rounds on the right side and work the dc rows/rounds on the wrong side. This gives you neater looking stripes.
Tips & Tricks
- To avoid having too many ends to weave in due to the striped pattern you can easily carry over the Sophia (off-white) color from one stripe to the next on the inside of your work. Make sure not to tighten these floats. For the contrasting colors I recommend to bind off and weave in the ends as they would make for very long floats which get frustrating when putting on or off the sweater catching your fingers, hair, jewelry etc.
Construction
The sweater is worked from the top down in the round (seamless). A first section is worked straight to form the collar after which stitch markers are placed to mark increase spots and shape the raglan yoke.
The increases are made in groups of 2 with a few stitches in between to create this beautiful wide raglan line.
The work is then joined in the round before splitting for the sleeves. The body is then worked separately before going back to work the sleeves. The stripe pattern is kept throughout the entire sweater (except the collar). The entire sweater is worked seamlessly in one piece. Finally, the zipper is added to finish of the sweater.
The Actual Zipper Sweater Crochet Pattern
Collar
With your 3.5mm / US E – 4 hook, ch 84 (92, 92, 92, 92) (100, 100, 108, 116) st + 2.
Row 1: Dc in 3rd st from hook, dc across, turn. <84 (92, 92, 92, 92) (100, 100, 108, 116) st>
Row 2: Ch 1, sc across, turn.
Row 3: Ch 2, dc across, turn.
Repeat Row 2 and 3 until you reach 13 cm / 5” finishing on a row 2.
Raglan Yoke
Note: You’re now going to start increasing to shape the raglan yoke. Each raglan line is made out of 4 st, on each row you’ll increase in the first and last one keeping 2 regular stitches in between. Place st markers as indicated to know where to increase on the following rounds.
Increase Row 1:
- Ch 2, dc 11 (14, 16, 17, 18) (19, 20, 22, 24),
- Raglan corner: 2 dc (mark 2nd st), dc 2, 2 dc (mark 1st st),
- dc 12 (10, 6, 4, 2) (4, 2, 2, 2),
- Raglan corner: 2 dc (mark 2nd st), dc 2, 2 dc (mark 1st st),
- dc 22 (28, 32, 34, 36) (38, 40, 44, 48),
- Raglan corner: 2 dc (mark 2nd st), dc 2, 2 dc (mark 1st st),
- dc 12 (10, 6, 4, 2) (4, 2, 2, 2),
- Raglan corner: 2 dc (mark 2nd st), dc 2, 2 dc (mark 1st st),
- dc 11 (14, 16, 17, 18) (19, 20, 22, 24), turn. <92 (100, 100, 100, 100) (108, 108, 116, 124) st>
Increase Row 2: Ch 1, sc until marked st, 2 sc (mark 2nd st), [sc 2, 2 sc (mark 1st st), sc until next marker, 2 sc (mark 1st st)] repeat until last marker (included), sc until end of row, turn. <100 (108, 108, 108, 108) (116, 116, 124, 132) st>
Increase Row 3: Ch 2, dc until marked st, 2 dc (mark 1st st), [dc 2, 2 dc (mark 2nd st), dc until next marker, 2 dc (mark 1st st)] repeat until last marker (included), dc until end of row, turn. <108 (116, 116, 116, 116) (124, 124, 132, 140) st>
Repeat Increase Row 2 and 3 12 (12, 12, 16, 16) (16, 16, 16, 16) times. <300 (308, 308, 372, 372, 380, 380, 388, 396) st>
Note: After 14 (14, 14, 18) (18, 18, 18, 18) rows of increases you’ll start working the stripe pattern and switch to Victor color yarn (blue).
Bind off and join yarn at the st marker at the back of the left shoulder for left-handed crocheters / right shoulder for right-handed crocheters.
Note: From now on work in rounds joining with a sl st at the end of the round and turning your work after each round.
Increase Round 1: Ch 1 (counts as a st), sc in same st (mark st), sc until next marker, 2 sc (mark 2nd st), [sc 2, 2 sc (mark 1st st), sc until next marker, 2 sc (mark 2nd st)] repeat until last marker (included), sc until end of row, join with a sl st in ch-1, turn. <308 (316, 316, 380, 380) (388, 388, 396, 404) st>
All sizes except XS (skip to no increases below):
Increase Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as a st), dc in same st (mark st), dc until next marker, 2 dc (mark 2nd st), [dc 2, 2 dc (mark 1st st), dc until next marker, 2 dc (mark 2nd st)] repeat until last marker (included), dc until end of round, join with a sl st in 2nd ch, turn. <X (324, 324, 388, 388) (396, 396, 404, 412) st>
- Size S: Repeat Increase Round 1 and 2. <340 st>
- Size M: Repeat Increase Round 1 and 2 twice. Repeat Increase Round 1 once more. <364 st>
- Size L: Repeat Increase Round 1. <396 st>
- Size XL: Repeat Increase Round 1 and 2 three times. <436 st>
- Size 2XL: Repeat Increase Round 1 and 2 five times. <476 st>
- Size 3XL: Repeat Increase Round 1 and 2 seven times. <508 st>
- Size 4XL: Repeat Increase Round 1 and 2 nine times. <548 st>
- Size 5XL: Repeat Increase Round 1 and 2 ten times. Repeat Increase Round 1 once more. <580 st>
Note: You can remove the stitch markers as you won’t need them moving forward.
Sizes XS to L only: no Increases
Continue without increases for 9 (7, 6, 3, X) (X, X, X, X) rounds repeating Round 1 and 2 below:
Round 1: Ch 2, dc around, join with a sl st in 2nd ch, turn.
Round 2: Ch 2, sc around, join with a sl st in ch-1, turn.
Split for sleeves
On your next round split for sleeves:
- Size XS: Ch 1, skip 72, sc 82, skip 72, sc 82, join with a sl st in ch-1, turn.
- Size S: Ch 1, skip 76, sc 94, skip 76, sc 94, join with a sl st in ch-1, turn.
- Size M: Ch 1, skip 78, sc 104, skip 78, sc 104, join with a sl st in ch-1, turn.
- Size L: Ch 1, skip 84, sc 114, skip 84, sc 114, join with a sl st in ch-1, turn.
- Size XL: Ch 1, skip 92, sc 126, skip 92, sc 126, join with a sl st in ch-1, turn.
- Size 2XL: Ch 1, skip 102, sc 136, skip 102, sc 136, join with a sl st in ch-1, turn.
- Size 3XL: Ch 1, skip 108, sc 146, skip 108, sc 146, join with a sl st in ch-1, turn.
- Size 4XL: Ch 1, skip 116, sc 158, skip 116, sc 158, join with a sl st in ch-1, turn.
- Size 5XL: Ch 1, skip 122, sc 168, skip 122, sc 168, join with a sl st in ch-1, turn.
Body
Round 1: Ch 2, dc around, join with a sl st in 2nd ch, turn.
Round 2: Ch 1, sc across, join with a sl st in 2nd ch, turn.
Repeat Round 1 until length from underarm is approximately 38 cm / 15”, finishing on a complete Sophia (off-white) stripe.
Bind off and weave in the ends
Sleeves
Keeping the stripe pattern join yarn back at the armhole.
Sizes XS to XL only
Round 1: Ch 1, sc around, join with a sl st in ch-1, turn. <72 (76, 78, 84, 92) (X, X, X, X) st>
Round 2: Ch 2, dc around, join with a sl st in 2nd ch, turn.
Repeat Round 2 and 3 13 (11, 11, 7, 1) (X, X, X, X) times. Repeat Round 1 once more.
Sizes 2XL to 5XL only
Round 1: Ch 1, sc around, join with a sl st in ch-1, turn.
Decrease round: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc until last 2 st, dc2tog, join with a sl st in 2nd ch, turn.
Work 1 round without decrease: Ch 1, sc around, join with a sl st in ch-1, turn.
Repeat Decrease round followed by 1 plain round X (X, X, X, X) (5, 9, 15, 19) times. <X (X, X, X, X) (90, 88, 84, 82) st>
All sizes
Decrease round: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc until last 2 st, dc2tog, join with a sl st in 2nd ch, turn.
Work 3 rounds without decrease: Work Round 1 – 2. Work Round 1 once more.
Repeat Decrease round followed by 3 plain rounds 11 (12, 12, 14, 17) (15, 13, 10, 8) times. <48 (50, 52, 54, 56) (58, 60, 62, 64) st>
Note: You should be finishing with a complete Sophia (off-white) stripe.
Bind off and weave in the end.
Repeat for the other sleeve.
Blocking
You’re done with the crocheting part. Make sure to weave in all the ends.
To make your sweater even prettier, help even your stitches and make your fabric glow, wet block your project.
Don’t skip this step as it can make a huge difference. Read my detailed tutorial on why block, how-to, and all my tips and tricks if you need help.
Finishing Touches
Add the zipper to the neck opening. Make sure the zipper ends don’t come up higher than the top of the collar. It’s ok if the collar doesn’t close for the last cm as you’ll never wear it completely closed.
