Beads and Bobbles Sweater Crochet Pattern

bumpy sweater free crochet sweater pattern in the round

This free top down crochet sweater pattern is made of alternating stripes of puffs, beads, and bobbles. And if you think that’s fun to say, just wait until you wear it!

The Beads and Bobbles Sweater is a new seamless crochet sweater pattern here on the blog. Read about my inspiration and the simple construction. Then purchase the pdf pattern with photos and instructions here for $4.7 or scroll down for the free version. 

No time right now? Pin this free top down crochet sweater pattern for later!

Crochet Bobble Sweater Pattern FREE

A Much-Needed Update on the 90s Bobble Sweater

When I think of bobble sweaters, I instantly go back to the early 90s when they were having a moment of popularity. But the sweaters back then were boxy and unflattering, and the colors were mostly of the primary variety. In short… they were due for an update.

The zigzag bobbles on this Beads and Bobbles Sweater feel like a much-improved version of a retro 90s piece. Go nuts with the colors for a fun and vibrant statement, or stick to neutrals for a subdued feel with lots of texture. The best part is, this sweater features a classic fit that’s flattering for all bodies and sized XS to 5XL. No more shapeless box!

This intermediate top down crochet sweater pattern is worked in the round and includes easy sections of colorwork. My step-by-step pattern will walk you through the entire process, and your new sweater will keep you warm all winter long!

Downloadable PDF Crochet Pattern

click here to purchase the downloadable pdf pattern of the beads and bobbles sweater crochet pattern

Why I Recommend You Purchase the PDF Pattern

If you’ve never used PDF patterns before, you are missing out on so much convenience!

  • You don’t need to take screenshots of the pattern
  • You don’t need to have your computer, phone or tablet around to work on your project.
  • You don’t need to panic if your husband accidentally closed the page
  • You can take notes, highlight your size and write down where you are.
  • When your best friend begs you to make her the same sweater, you have the pattern ready..
  • It’s a great way to support the blog so I can continue to bring you knitting tutorials.

Grab the printable PDF of the Beads and Bobbles Sweater seamless crochet pattern now in my Etsy shop or on Ravelry:

beads and bobbles crochet sweater pattern

Before you Start your Top Down Crochet Sweater

Materials

Size

This free top down crochet sweater pattern is available in following sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL size. Sizes are written as XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) throughout the pattern. Pictures illustrate the medium size.

The sweater is designed with a close fit, 0” to 2” / 0 – 5 cm ease.

Below are the final sweater dimensions for the different sizes. 

  • XS: bust 32” / 81 cm, length 25” / 64 cm
  • S: bust 34.5” / 88 cm, length 26” / 66 cm 
  • M: bust 39” / 99 cm, length 26” / 66 cm
  • L: bust 44” / 112 cm length 26” / 66 cm
  • XL: bust 46.5” / 118 cm length 26.5” / 67 cm
  • 2XL: bust 51.5” / 131 cm length 27” / 69 cm
  • 3XL: bust 56.5” /144 cm length 27.5” / 70 cm
  • 4XL: bust 59” /150 cm length 28” / 71 cm
  • 5XL: bust 64” / 163 cm length 28” / 71 cm
crochet sweater pattern size schematic

Gauge

The gauge for this pattern, in alternating rows of dc / sc, is 13 st by 11 rows for a 4” by 4” / 10 cm by 10 cm square. 

Confused on how to make or measure gauge? Check out my detailed post all about crochet gauge.

learn to read crochet patterns ebook

Abbreviations

This free crochet sweater pattern uses US notations.

  • st = stitch
  • ch = chain
  • sc = single crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • dc2tog = double crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)
  • sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)
  • yo = yarn over
  • skip = miss
  • sl st = slip stitch

Notes

Work instructions between [ ] the indicated number of times or until the end of the row / round.

The final number of stitches is indicated at the end of the row / round between < >.

The turning ch 1, ch 2 don’t count as stitches throughout the pattern except if mentioned otherwise.

The pattern is written in crochet shorthand.  For example:

  • “sc 1” means to single crochet in the next stitch, 
  • “sc 2” means to single crochet in each of the next 2 stitches,
  • and “2 sc” means to single crochet twice in the next st.
free knitting and crochet cheatsheets

Special stitches

  • Puff stitch = yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, insert hook in same st, yo, pull up a loop] 4 times, yo, pull through all 11 loops on the hook. 
  • Bead stitch = The bead stitch is similar to a puff stitch but done horizontally. It’s worked up around a dc stitch.

Bead stitch = Work dc in indicated stitch, [yo, working around the dc post just made pull up a loop] 5 times, yo and pull through the all 11 loops on the hook. 

  • Bobble stitch = [yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up a loop. Yo, pull through two loops] 5 times in the same space, yo and pull through all loops 6.
  • Foundation single crochet = ch 2, insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through first loop (making a “chain”). Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

*Insert hook into previous “chain” you made (It should look like you go through a resemblance of a “normal” st, with 2 strands of yarn), pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through first loop (making a “chain”). Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Repeat from * until you reached the desired number of stitches. If you are not familiar with this technique, I recommend this very helpful tutorial by Joy of Motion Crochet.

texture on the free Top down crochet sweater pattern

Top Down Sweater Construction

The sweater is worked in the round from the top down. The yoke is worked first, then joined under the arms to work the body, leaving the stitches for the sleeves on the sides. Finally, you’ll go back to join the yarn at the armholes and make the sleeves. 

top down construction of the seamless crochet sweater pattern

Repeated Stitch Patterns

The contrasting color sections are always identical while all the shaping is done in the main color sections (color A).

Find the detailed explanation for these repeated sections here, they will be referred to by double puff, bead and bobble waves section throughout the pattern.

Double puff section (worked in color B)

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 st), skip 1, [dc, make a puff st in the skipped st, ch 1 to close, skip 1] around to last st, hdc, sl st in the 2nd ch to join.

Round 2: Ch 2, [skip space before puff st, dc in top of puff st, make a puff st in skipped space, ch 1 to close] around, hdc in the 2nd ch, sl st to join.

Note: After working Rounds 1 and 2 of Double Puff pattern, if any of the markers are in a Puff or dc, move them to the ch-1 space immediately before the marked Puff or dc

Bead section (worked in color C)

Round 1: Ch 2, [bead st (counts as 2 stitches), skip 1] around, join with a sl st.

Note: While working Bead pattern, if a marker is in a skipped st, move the marker up to the next Bead st.

Bobble waves section (worked with color A and color D)

Work all sc stitches in color A and all bobbles in color D. 

Tip: You can work this section using either tapestry crochet (the yarn color not in use is worked over by the current color and it will sit within the stitches being worked) or Fair Isle (the yarn color not in use is carried in the back (inside of the sweater)). I used the Fair Isle method as a personal preference.

Round 1: With color A ch 1, [with color D bobble, with color A sc 7] around, sl st to join.

Round 2: With color A ch 1, sc around, sl st to join.

Round 3: With color A ch 1, sc 2, with color D bobble, [with color A sc 3, with color D bobble] until last st, with color A sc, sl st to join.

Round 4: Repeat Round 2.

Round 5: With color A ch 1, sc 4, [with color D bobble, with color A sc 7], with color D bobble, with color A sc 3, sl st to join.

The Actual Free Top Down Crochet Sweater Pattern

Before you get started, purchase the convenient printable PDF pattern HERE.

All rounds are worked in color A except repeated stitch pattern sections which are worked in their respective colors. For clarity purposes, color changes are not indicated throughout the pattern.

  • Yoke

    With your 5.5mm / US I – 9 hook and color A yarn, foundation single crochet 57 (65, 65, 73, 73, 81, 81, 89, 97) and join in the round with a sl st in the first st. <56 (64, 64, 72, 72, 80, 80, 88, 96)
    beginning the yoke for the bumpy sweater crochet pattern

  • Yoke Part 1

    Round 1: ch 2, [dc 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11), 2 dc and place a st marker in the 2nd st] around, join with a sl st in the 2nd ch. <64 (72, 72, 80, 80, 88, 88, 96, 104)>
    *Note: All sizes now have 8 marked stitches.
    Round 2 (sc increase round): Ch 1, [sc until st marker, 2 sc in marked st (place marker in second st)] around, join with a sl st. <72 (80, 80, 88, 88, 96, 96, 104, 112)>
    Round 3 (dc increase round): Ch 2, [dc until st marker, 2 dc in marked st (place marker in second st)] around, join with a sl st in the 2nd ch. <80 (88, 88, 96, 96, 104, 104, 112, 120)>

  • For size S & XS skip to yoke part 2.
    Round 4: Sc increase round. <X (X, 96, 104, 104, 112, 112, 120, 128)>
    For size M & L skip to yoke part 2.
    Round 5: Dc increase round. <X (X, X, X, 112, 120, 120, 128, 136)>
    Round 6: Sc increase round. <X (X, X, X,120, 128, 128, 136, 144)>
    For XL, 2XL skip to yoke part 2.
    Round 7: Dc increase round. <X (X, X, X, X, X, 136, 144, 152)>
    For 3XL skip to yoke part 2.
    Round 8: Sc increase round. <X (X, X, X, X, X, X, 152, 160)>
    For 4XL skip to yoke part 2.
    Round 9: Sc increase round. <X (X, X, X, X, X, X, X, 168)>

  • Yoke Part 2 (common to all sizes)

    Round 1 – 2: Work a double puff section. Move st marker up with each round.
    Round 3: Ch 2, 2 sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), [2 sc in each gap until st marker, 3 sc in marked gap] around, 2 sc in the last gap, sl st to join. <88 (96, 104, 112, 128, 136, 144, 160, 176)>
    Round 4 – 7: [Work dc increase round followed by sc increase round] twice.
    Round 8 – 12: Work a bobble waves section.  Move st marker up with each round.
    Round 13 – 16: [Work sc increase round followed by a dc increase round] twice.
    Round 17: Sc increase round.
    Round 18: Work a bead section. Move st marker up with each round.
    Round 19: Sc increase round.
    Round 20:  Dc increase round.
    Round 21: Sc increase round. <184 (192, 200, 208, 224, 232, 240, 256, 272)>

  • Yoke Part 3 – For XS Size

    Done with increases, remove stitch markers. < 184 (X, X, X, X, X, X, X, X) st>
    Round 1 (dc round): Ch 2, dc around, join with a sl st.
    Round 2 (sc round): Ch 1, sc around, join with a sl st.
    Round 3 – 4: Work a double puff section. 
    Round 5: Ch 2, 2 sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), 2 sc in each gap around, 2 sc in the last gap, sl st to join.
    Round 6: Dc round.
    Round 7: Sc round.
    Round 8: Dc round.
    Split for the arms: skip 40 st, sc 56, skip 40, sc 48, sl st to join. < 104 (X, X, X, X, X, X, X, X) st>
    yoke for bumpy sweater crochet pattern

  • Yoke Part 3 – For S Size

    Round 1: Dc increase round.
    Round 2: Sc increase round.
    Done with increases, remove stitch markers. < X (208, X, X, X, X, X, X, X) st>
    Round 3 – 4: Work a double puff section. 
    Round 5: Ch 2, 2 sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), 2 sc in each gap around, 2 sc in the last gap, sl st to join.
    Round 6 (dc round): Ch 2, dc around, join with a sl st.
    Round 7 (sc round): Ch 1, sc around, join with a sl st.
    Round 8: Dc round.
    Split for the arms: skip 48 st, sc 60, skip 48, sc 52, sl st to join. < X (112, X, X, X, X, X, X, X) st>

  • Yoke Part 3 – For M Size

    Round 1: Dc increase round.
    Round 2: Sc increase round.
    Round 3 – 4: Work a double puff section. Move st marker up with each round.
    Round 5: Ch 2, 2 sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), [2 sc in each gap until st marker, 3 sc in marked gap] around, 2 sc in the last gap, sl st to join.
    Done with increases, remove stitch markers. . < X (X, 224, X, X, X, X, X, X) st>
    Round 6 (dc round): Ch 2, dc around, join with a sl st.
    Round 7 (sc round): Ch 1, sc around, join with a sl st.
    Round 8: Dc round.
    Split for the arms: skip 48 st, sc 68, skip 48, sc 60, sl st to join. < X (X, 128, X, X, X, X, X, X) st>

  • Yoke Part 3 – For L Size

    Round 1: Dc increase round.
    Round 2: Sc increase round.
    Round 3 – 4: Work a double puff section. Move st marker up with each round.
    Round 5: Ch 2, 2 sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), [2 sc in each gap until st marker, 3 sc in marked gap (place marker in the last st)] around, 2 sc in the last gap, sl st to join.
    Round 6: Dc increase round.
    Done with increases, remove stitch markers. . < X (X, X, 240, X, X, X, X, X) st>
    Round 7 (sc round): Ch 1, sc around, join with a sl st.
    Round 8 (dc round): Ch 2, dc around, join with a sl st.
    Round 9: Sc round.
    Split for the arms: skip 48 st, sc 76, skip 48, sc 68, sl st to join. < X (X, X, 144, X, X, X, X, X) st>

  • Yoke Part 3 – For XL Size

    Round 1: Dc increase round.
    Round 2: Sc increase round.
    Round 3 – 4: Work a double puff section. Move st marker up with each round.
    Round 5: Ch 2, 2 sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), [2 sc in each gap until st marker, 3 sc in marked gap (place marker in the last st)] around, 2 sc in the last gap, sl st to join.
    Round 6: Dc increase round.
    Round 7: Sc increase round.
    Done with increases, remove stitch markers. . < X (X, X, X, 264, X, X, X, X) st>
    Round 8 (dc round): Ch 2, dc around, join with a sl st.
    Round 9 (sc round): Ch 1, sc around, join with a sl st.
    Split for the arms: skip 56 st, sc 80, skip 56, sc 72, sl st to join. < X (X, X, X, 152, X, X, X, X) st>

  • Yoke Part 3 – For 2XL Size

    Round 1: Dc increase round.
    Round 2: Sc increase round.
    Round 3 – 4: Work a double puff section. Move st marker up with each round.
    Round 5: Ch 2, 2 sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), [2 sc in each gap until st marker, 3 sc in marked gap (place marker in the last st)] around, 2 sc in the last gap, sl st to join.
    Round 6 – 9: [Dc increase round followed by sc increase round] twice.
    Round 10: Dc increase round
    Done with increases, remove stitch markers. . < X (X, X, X, X, 296, X, X, X) st>
    Split for the arms: skip 64 st, sc 88, skip 64, sc 80, sl st to join. < X (X, X, X, X, 168, X, X, X) st>

  • Yoke Part 3 – For 3XL Size

    Round 1: Dc increase round.
    Round 2: Sc increase round.
    Round 3 – 4: Work a double puff section. Move st marker up with each round.
    Round 5: Ch 2, 2 sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), [2 sc in each gap until st marker, 3 sc in marked gap (place marker in the last st)] around, 2 sc in the last gap, sl st to join.
    Round 6 – 11: [Dc increase round followed by sc increase round] three times.
    Done with increases, remove stitch markers. < X (X, X, X, X, X, 312, X, X) st>
    Split for the arms: skip 64 st, sc 96, skip 64, sc 88, sl st to join. < X (X, X, X, X, X, 184, X, X) st>

  • Yoke Part 3 – For 4XL Size

    Round 1: Dc increase round.
    Round 2: Sc increase round.
    Round 3 – 4: Work a double puff section. Move st marker up with each round.
    Round 5: Ch 2, 2 sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), [2 sc in each gap until st marker, 3 sc in marked gap (place marker in the last st)] around, 2 sc in the last gap, sl st to join.
    Round 6 – 11: [Dc increase round followed by sc increase round] three times.
    Round 12: Dc increase round.
    Done with increases, remove stitch markers. < X (X, X, X, X, X, X, 336, X) st>
    Split for the arms: skip 72 st, sc 100, skip 72, sc 92, sl st to join. < X (X, X, X, X, X, X, 192, X) st>

  • Yoke Part 3 – For 5XL Size

    Round 1: Dc increase round.
    Round 2: Sc increase round.
    Round 3 – 4: Work a double puff section. Move st marker up with each round.
    Round 5: Ch 2, 2 sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), [2 sc in each gap until st marker, 3 sc in marked gap (place marker in the last st)] around, 2 sc in the last gap, sl st to join.
    Round 6 – 11: [Dc increase round followed by sc increase round] 3 times.
    Round 12: Dc increase round.
    Done with increases, remove stitch markers. < X (X, X, X, X, X, X, X, 352) st>
    Split for the arms: skip 72 st, sc 108, skip 72, sc 100, sl st to join. < X (X, X, X, X, X, X, X, 208) st>

  • Body

    Work body stitches only.
    Round 1 – 5: Work a bobble waves section.
    Round 6 (sc round): Ch 1, sc around, join with a sl st.
    Round 7: Ch 2, [dc 6, dc2tog] 8 times, dc until end of the round, join with a sl st. <96 (104, 120, 136, 144, 160, 176, 184, 200) st>
    Round 8: Sc round.
    Round 9 (dc round): Dc round.
    Round 10: Sc round.
    Round 11: Work a bead section.
    Round 12 – 15: [Work sc round followed by dc round] twice
    Round 16: Sc round.
    Round 17 – 18: Work a double puff section.
    Round 19: Ch 2, 2 sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), 2 sc in each gap around, 2 sc in the last gap, sl st to join.
    Round 20 – 23: [Work dc round followed by an sc round] twice
    Round 24 – 28: Work a bobble waves section.
    Round 29 – 32: [Work sc round followed by a dc round] twice
    Round 33: Sc round.
    Round 34 – 44: Repeat Round 11 to 21.
    adding the body to the bumpy sweater crochet pattern

  • Sleeves

    Both sleeves are identical.
    Round 1: Join yarn in the armhole and ch 1, sc around, join with a sl st. <40 (48, 48, 48, 56, 64, 64, 72, 72) st>
    Round 2 – 6: Work a bobble waves section.
    Round 7 (sc round): Ch 1, sc around, join with a sl st.
    Round 8 (dc round): Ch 2, dc around, join with a sl st.
    Round 9 – 10: Work sc round followed by dc round.
    Round 11: Sc round
    Round 12: Work a bead section.
    Round 13 – 14: Work sc round followed by dc round.
    Round 15: Sc round
    Round 16: Ch 2, [dc 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 14, 14, 16, 16), dc2tog] 4 times, join with a sl st. <36 (44, 44, 44, 52, 60, 60, 68, 68) st>
    Round 17: Sc round.
    Round 18 – 19: Work a double puff section.
    Round 20: Ch 2, 2 sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), 2 sc in each gap around, 2 sc in the last gap, sl st to join.
    Round 21: Ch 2, [dc 7 (9, 9, 9, 11, 13, 13, 15, 15), dc2tog] 4 times, dc until end of the round, join with a sl st. <32 (40, 40, 40, 48, 56, 56, 64, 64) st>
    Round 22 – 23: Work sc round followed by dc round.
    Round 24: Sc round.
    Round 25 – 29: Work bobble waves section.
    Round 30: Sc round
    Round 31: Ch 2, [dc 6 (8, 8, 8, 10, 12, 12, 14, 14), dc2tog] 4 times, dc until end of the round, join with a sl st. <28 (36, 36, 36, 44, 52, 52, 60, 60) st>
    Round 32 – 33: Work sc round followed by dc round.
    Round 34: Sc round.
    Round 35: Work bead section.
    Round 36 – 39: [Work sc round followed by dc round] twice.
    Round 40: Sc round.
    Round 41 – 42: Work a double puff section.
    Round 43: Ch 2, 2 sc in the first gap (before the 1st puff), 2 sc in each gap around, 2 sc in the last gap, sl st to join.
    Round 44: Dc round.
    Round 45: Sc round.
    adding sleeves to the bumpy sweater free crochet sweater pattern

Blocking Your Top Down Crochet Sweater

You’re done with the crocheting part. Make sure to fasten off and weave in all the ends.

To make your sweater even prettier, help even your stitches and make the textures come out even more, steam block your project.

Don’t skip this step as it can make a huge difference. Read my detailed tutorial on why block, how-to, and all my tips and tricks if you need help.

Finished bumpy seamless crochet sweater pattern

If you enjoyed this free top down crochet sweater pattern, I’d love to see yours! Make sure you tag me @knittingwithchopsticks or use #knittingwithchopsticks so I can see it!

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